Destroyer Class War Squid (sketch)

Started by thegayhare, March 27, 2013, 02:39:32 PM

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thegayhare



While the Orky claws are probably goign to be my official hand I wanted to try a new type of paw

this is the bare bones paw 14 brass hinges with 2 pieces if scrap wood. now so far this build is 15 separate wooden parts each finger section is 2 and 1/2 inches long and the finger tips have been whittled down

so far this one is with out the parts needed to make it open or close and before I add the hardware I will probably add a number of layers of gray latex paint. I'm also thinking of maybe adding a covering to the hand but not sure

also do you folks think I'm posting too much?  If I'm being a bother let me know

Kirrin_Shadowclaw

Actually this stuff is pretty cool, i like to see this kinda outlet of productivity. Though i don't usually post about your work.(Mostly cause i don't know enough to give proper details or such about this kinda thing.) I do enjoy seeing it.
Ask not for whom the bell tolls, ask why is that guy holding his ears?

thegayhare

Thanks I was worried I mean

I've posted alot of stuff here and get close to no response I was just worried I was getting annoying.   

thank you

Kirrin_Shadowclaw

It's honestly no problem, like i said. The only reason i don't post more than this on this subject is because i'm not as 'handy' (Sorry about the pun. XD ) about this type of construction and such. You are quite good at it after all.
Ask not for whom the bell tolls, ask why is that guy holding his ears?

llearch n'n'daCorna

I'm watching, even if I'm not saying anything. Been busy of late.
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Mel Dragonkitty

I really enjoy your costuming posts Hare. I sew clothing and make toys and have done various forms of sculpting but I don't think I could find the patience to do them all at the same time. I have a ton of respect for your talent.
My, I'll bet you monsters lead interesting lives. I said to my girlfriend just the other day: "Gee, I'll bet monsters are interesting," I said. The places you must go and the things you must see. My stars! And I'll bet you meet a lot of interesting people, too. I'm always interested in meeting interesting people.

thegayhare

thanks guys.

I don't mean sto sound whiny its just with little feed back I had gotten the feeling I was just pestering people with the multiple back to back posts.

It is good to hear you folks like builds


A little up date

no pictures of this stuff but I've started building a shell for the new hand so far it's 3 pieces of dollar store tupaware and bowls. 

I also added the brass eyelets.   thats 57 screw in brass eyelets....  my fingers were sore after that.  5 packets of them also from the dollar tree from a picture hanging packet (ill be using the picture wire from that as the control wires.)  I then ran through the eyelets I put on the palm some clear plastic tubing, and hot glued it into place.  once the paint is dry I'll thread the control wires through those tubes and eyelets.   that will give me the muscles to allow me to constrict the fingers

in preperation for the next step,  I've destroyed 14 click button pens....  I'm not sure if I should tell you why just now but you can guess

I've got it drying down stairs now with a coat of paint on the palms.

I'm thinking of appling a thin layer of pva foam across the palm and knuckles as well as across the top of the fingers


Kirrin_Shadowclaw

Wow, how do you manage to shape the bowls and tupaware and bowls for shells? Or do you need to shape them at all? Besides possibly having to cut a chunk or two out of them to fit them on.
Ask not for whom the bell tolls, ask why is that guy holding his ears?

thegayhare

For the most part since I'm buying them for the shell I look for shapes that look good and fit together well.  But I have a hot knife for cutting (a soldering iron with an exacto blade tip) and if I want to shape something I have a heat gun.  But that's hard to do right.  You use it to soften the plastic but if you leave it on onespot to long the plastic will blister and burn. 

My current shell is made from a gallon cylinder.   My hand fit inside perfectly.  But I didn't count on the wooden base I had to mount my controls too so that didn't give me enough room to open and close my hand.  So of got a pop corn bucket cut the bottom off and fitted it over the end of the cylinder.  The bowl gives me space to open and close my hand.  I the got a circular container that fit on the top of the pop corn bucket

thegayhare

 I used the springs from 14 click pens stretched between the eyelets on the back of the hands, this will pull the fingers back into place, since I couldn't use the wire I used heavy duty fishing line. I tied off one end of the line to the finger tip eyelet and thread it through the eyelets on the bottom of the fingers, and threaded it through the corresponding control tube.

So how it works is you will pull the control wire it'll curl the finger, then when you release the springs will pull it back into place


llearch n'n'daCorna

That looks... eerily mechanical. Good work, bunny. Will be interested to see the results as you progress further...
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Kirrin_Shadowclaw

I honestly can't wait to see what the finished product of all your hard work looks like.
Ask not for whom the bell tolls, ask why is that guy holding his ears?

thegayhare

#42
Thanks I should have some new pics in a day or so,  maybe even an early move mentioned vid

I just finished my control glove.  It's nothing special an old leather gloves with the fingertips cut off and split ring key ring loops sewn to the ends.  I'll show pics once it's mounted to the arm.

I also don't like the pen springs they are too weak making the fingers sag if held palm down.  I have new springs, the same type used on my claws.  I'm gonna cut them to size and fix that too.

And with the two new cans of black spray paint I can start on the shell and pva skins

thegayhare




I just finished my control glove. It's nothing special an old leather glove with the fingertips cut off and split ring key ring loops sewn to the ends.

I also didn't like the pen springs they are too weak making the fingers sag if held palm down. I have new springs, the same type used on my claws. I cut them to size replaced them on the hands. I then added the black painted PVA foam pieces

Kirrin_Shadowclaw

Thats amazing, wish i could do things like this but i lack the technical and mechanical savvy.
Ask not for whom the bell tolls, ask why is that guy holding his ears?

thegayhare

thanks though I will admit the arm doesn't work quite right.  the springs are too tight I think  but damn it looks cool.   So before I work on the shell I'm going to try and get new springs





I've started working on the axe now.  I posted the designs earlier  you can see the basic pieces gathered here.  I have a chloroplast shell ready as well as 3 plastic rollers  that the chain blade will run over.  you can also see what is going to be the drive wheel (2 bottle tops, covered in the plastic spikes from the neck of the bottles),  I am planning to use the nylon strapping as the base of the chain and the broken ice scraper pole will be the handle for my axe.   now I just need a motor.

Tokoz

This is an awesome costume and it's seriously encouraging to see you using things my broke-ass costume-making self could afford.  :)  What are you planning to make the chainsaw teeth/blades out of?

thegayhare

#47
Quote from: Tokoz on August 19, 2013, 03:44:44 PM
This is an awesome costume and it's seriously encouraging to see you using things my broke-ass costume-making self could afford.  :)  What are you planning to make the chainsaw teeth/blades out of?

thanks Since I'm broke I like to try and work with things I can afford too and well it's alot of fun.

As for your question



I finished the belt and teeth for my axe.

the belt is simple nylon straping, and the teeth are foam cushion. I cut a strip of the black foam and then cut that into right angled teeth. I then used clear nylon thread to sew the teeth to the strap. to add some grip and clean up the threads I applied hot glue to the underside of the strapping and used a duct tape covered finger to spread the hot glue across that layer.

It turns well and is a good set. But I think I'm going to cut a new shell for the axe, something to set the strap a little further away from the edge.   See I should have not poked all the holes before I had the teeth and belt ready

Kirrin_Shadowclaw

Heh, i'd love to see how well you could make a Lancer from the Gears of War Series. This is awesome by the way.
Ask not for whom the bell tolls, ask why is that guy holding his ears?

thegayhare

I will admit when I was modding my long shot I had thought of doing it Lancer style but desided against it mainly cause I've never played gears of war... but you got me thinking.  I have 3 mavericks   I wonder how a chainsaw bayonet would look on a revolver

Kirrin_Shadowclaw

Oh, that i'm definitely interested in finding the answer to. I myself think it'd look awesome, especially if the revolver is long barrel model.
Ask not for whom the bell tolls, ask why is that guy holding his ears?

thegayhare

Un fortunately I'm not sure I have the stuff on hand for the maverick bayonet right off I don't think I could use the same set up as I am with the axe.  Also which would be a better bayonet chainsaw or buzz saw.

Second do you think a motor with a attached battery that can run 45 minutes strait on a single charge. Would be a good one to use.  I figure as a costume piece I won't have it running all the time and 45 minutes if use should be plenty

llearch n'n'daCorna

Depends on how long it takes to charge, really. The optimal way is to consider how to pull the battery and swap it out - if you can design a way of doing that from the start, it makes it easier. Back-end access to the battery pack, and a clip-type connector, perhaps? Charging in place is all well and good, but charging usually generates heat, and you want to dissipate that as much as possible (so the pack lasts for more recharges, and keeps charge better) so being able to remove it is a good plan; however, you want it to be well locked in place when it _is_ in use, as movement will shake it about, and (since a battery pack is a heavy object) it's likely to damage the internals of the costume. And possibly the costumer, if you're unlucky.

Just my 2p, though.
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thegayhare

Quote from: llearch n'n'daCorna on August 24, 2013, 06:55:31 AM
Depends on how long it takes to charge, really. The optimal way is to consider how to pull the battery and swap it out - if you can design a way of doing that from the start, it makes it easier.

Well with the motor I have,  its a wireless power screwdriver,   it hasn't been used in years so I can scrap it for the motor with no regrets.   unfortunatly the built in baterry pack doesn't have a indicator to let you know when the battery is fully charged.

once I get into the case I should be able to see what the battery is like and how I could possible replace it.   I have a bunch of remote control car batteries.  one is going to be in my head to power the camera rig (tested out to run atleast 8 hours powering camera and lcd screen) one of those might work well if its easy to wire in a conector (my idea is to scrap one or two of the chargers that came with the batteris to a little rewire and the batteries are held firmly in place )

thegayhare



Well I replaced a few springs and it works much better now.   

I uploaded the new pic so I could link to a new video showing the movement

I like this hand cause it lets me make a gesture that I can't manage with the Klaws

rated mature for gestures

http://youtu.be/rC4DwiGlybo

llearch n'n'daCorna

*snerk* I can't think why you'd want that gesture. ;-]
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"We found Scientology!" -- The Bad Idea Bears

thegayhare

I don't know why I would either but I do know the claws can't really do it or any other gestures.... but I like the claws



I was reading a book and the man char had something called an Articulated Sheath.

She was a paladin of a war god in holy armor with a revolver and bastard sword.

The sheath had arms that would extend the hilt to the user when needed, and would grab the sword and sheath it.

now the one the book was described more as a mechanical spider that hunched on her spine since it could grab the sword if it had been dropped, and switch to extending it over the shoulder or under the arm.

It got me thinking about how I would make a mechanical sheath. this is my design its a hard wooden or mettle slot with an open top. the top is fitted with triangular teeth with long pistons at the head fitted with spring triggered clamps. when triggers the teeth would open releasing the sword, and the pistons would push the hilt forward. you could them grab the hilt and lift the blade straight off your back easier then drawing it out. when done you put the cross bar to the spring clamps. this would grip the bar and allow you to simply lower the blade into the sheath, the piston retracts and the teeth swing shut keeping the blade in place

I'm not sure if I can build it but I'm tempted too

thegayhare



hi hi all

Well I re drilled the shells on the chain axe, added the rollers and the drive gear with the belt.

The belt rolls pretty well over the form.

I'm going to be building the rest of the shell tomorrow

Then I will set up the motor

thegayhare



I needed to test the drive gear and chain belt. I think It works well

What do you think
http://youtu.be/Jv6N8H6yz50

LionHeart

Looks good to me, although the belt looks a tad loose. You don't want it slipping off.
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